I don’t believe in modernism in couture – today’s couture should reach out to the past,” said Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose show was indisputably the most powerful, moving and important of Paris fashion week.
Yet however strong his work, I have to differ with the designer on his dedication to modernising historical materials and their construction. Even by making them infinitely lighter and easier to wear, his choice of fabrics and aesthetic are still rooted in the past.
The only designer in the Spring 2019 couture season who embraced absolutely that ‘the future is now’ was Iris van Herpen. Yet the Dutch designer found inspiration in the distant past – specifically in the 1660 constellation atlas Harmonia Macrocosmica by Dutch-German cartographer Andreas Cellarius who created a preliminary map of the heavens. [See More Vogue.com]