Last season’s shows in New York made for a jolly experience. Between Ralph Lauren’s glamorous anniversary show, the return of Rodarte, and Wes Gordon’s solo debut at Caroline Herrera, the American fashion week was a delight. If the autumn/winter 2019 shows – which kick off on February 6th – are looking more like business as usual, at least New York has taught us to expect the unexpected.
Following Raf Simons’ departure from Calvin Klein in November, the fashion giant will not be presenting a runway show this season. But with a new designer announcement looming this year, Calvin Klein could once again be the most anticipated show in New York come September. Also missing is Victoria Beckham, who has decided to keep showing in London after relocating to the British capital for her anniversary show last season. Finally, Rodarte – whose made a critically acclaimed return to New York last season – will be showing in Los Angeles on February 5th, continuing the on-tour trend favoured by brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Emporio Armani.
Helmut Lang last presented a runway show in September 2017 under guest designer Shayne Oliver and editor-in-residence Isabella Burley. With a new curator in place – Alix Browne, the founding editor of V Magazine – the brand makes its return to the runway on February 11th. After a stint on the Paris couture schedule, Proenza Schouler staged its homecoming to New York last season and the duo has decided to stay put, showing on February 11th.
Matthew Adams Dolan has been a hot ticket in New York since his arrival in 2017. This season looks like a break from the runway for the young designer, but New York has other emerging talent up its sleeve. Telfar Clemens is expected to stage the newest installment in what’s become a young tradition of immersive show experiences, while Palomo Spain – who last showed in Paris – is making his New York debut.
Rodarte may have beat him to kicking off the season with their Los Angeles one-off, but Tom Ford still owns the first night of New York Fashion Week. Joining him on the list of shows always worth the anticipation is Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera – which sees the sophomore solo outing of Wes Gordon – who all bring a touch of Upper East Side pizzazz to the New York schedule. After its grand Pre-Fall show in Shanghai, Coach is sticking to its Big Apple core, while Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs will ring out the ball as usual on February 13th.